Emu Bronte Czy Stinger

Nikon begins Day - 12.12.2009

Saturday, December 12 I went to Nikon Day in Turin, held in a known photo shop on Via Lagrange. Fortunately
advertising the event was not a lot, so I and two friends who came with me we do not have to wait long to get into machines and test objectives.
The event was to prove to customers (after registration at the counter, who breaks pays ...) virtually all current range of bodies and Nikon lenses (plus a few things out of production), among which stands out above all the new releases : D3s, D300s, Micro-Nikkor 85 f3.5 and Nikkor 70-200 f2.8 VRII.
was not available the new Nikkor AF-S VR 300 f2.8, presented only two days before the event.
To entice the public was placed a small set downstairs, equipped with two studio flash (on softbox) and two beautiful models. Much better than photographing the walls, newspapers or a bystander! I

, arriving late (at 15) I lost D3s, I'd like to try, but at least I could still spoil a fantastic D3, with all respect ottihe such f2.8D AF 80-200, AF 85 f1.4D, AF-S 28-70 f2.8, 14-24 f2.8 and, wonder of wonders, the AF-S VR 300 f2.8. Then I could try, because they had made friends who came with me, D3X with 24-70 f2.8 and D300s with the new 70-200. Really bad!

The objectives were also seen only in the magazine 400 f2.8 (a monster huge and heavy) and the 200 f2 (according to people who tested that day rather difficult to use because of heavy weight), as well as various PC-E Nikkor, which I have not tried because the manual focus in low light is not my forte.

Even though I got some good photos there are a couple of things that were not organized at best, in my opinion: First, not photographed one by one, but there were always more or less about 15 people who photographed the models, which alternated between them. This meant that no one could find a really good point shooting, and sometimes some good pictures because I have not taken There was someone's head in the middle (especially when using the 300, because you're 4 or 5 meters from the model). A problem, however I doubt this could easily be remedied: with so many people it is unthinkable to take one at a time.

The second problem was the lighting: the flashes were connected to a single camera, and then used by a single, lucky photographer. So the models, between shots and the other, were lit only by the pilot of the flash lamps, our only source of light. The result is that we poor mortals have had to use the targets at full aperture and high ISO. Part of me has been the same good, because at ISO 800 D3 has less noise in my D40 at ISO 400, then the shots came very clean anyway.
One could solve the problem by using light bulbs still a bit 'powerful.

Despite this I was able to sample the excellent quality of the D3, I had already tried a couple of times, but never like this, and high-end Nikkor lenses. In particular, the 300 f2.8 I was amazed, it is crystal clear, and despite the weight because the VR is able to shoot at 1 / 160 of a second, without a shadow of a shake-. Too bad for the cost, about 5000 €, which automatically excludes it from the list of my wishes for the future.
The only errors that found in the images are mine, the picture is not the kind that I practice more often, and do not have much experience. This, coupled with the fact that I do not know the objectives and the machines I used (in particular the D3 and D300 series of autofocus is very complicated to use the first few times, especially for me that I'm used to that, poverty, D40) made sure that the photos are really successful a rather low proportion.

A small note on the models. In a portrait of the credit for a good photo is the model, at least in such a situation, where he worked almost independently. If it all should set themselves to tell the model that you should take all placed in total confusion. A good model then knows to look a bit 'all, alternatively, hold the poses a bit' longer to make sure that even those who do not look straight objective has time to shoot, eccerera, and so on.

In this sense, the model proved to be the second best (the opening image, just to understand). I got some wonderful poses, with expressions that are waiting to be immortalized. The first probably has a little 'less experience, has always seen only the first row and thirty (or more) of images that I took maybe two looks at me, came and stood still why do not you move .. .

Picture Data (in order):

opening Photos: Nikon D3, Nikkor 300 f2.8 VR
1 / 125, F2.8, ISO 800, Picture Control: Neutral
touches: a slight increase in brightness and contrast, especially on the eyes, light skin smoothing and sharpening.
Photo 2: Nikon D3, Nikkor 85 f1.4
1 / 80, F2.8, ISO 800, Picture Control: Neutral
touches: a general increase in brightness and contrast, saturation and sharpening.
Photo 3: Nikon D300s, Nikkor 70-200 VRII
1 / 80, F2.8, ISO 400, Picture Control: Neutral, 14bit NEF
Touches: slight increase brightness and contrast, light smoothing of the skin and mask contrast.
Photo 4: Nikon D3, Nikkor 300 f2.8 VR
1 / 200, F2.8, ISO 800, Picture Control: Neutral
Touches: increase brightness and contrast, light smoothing of the skin and mask contrast.

Herpes In Pubic Hairs

Photo Stepper: iPod Mini

time ago I took this photo of my iPod. I wanted to get a style advertising, in short, a picture that might appear in a catalog of Apple.
say that the result I do not mind, considering the tools I used.
This is a brief explanation of how I got this picture. Although an image of impact (at least for me) the equipment used is just a little.
For this picture should be:

• An iPod Mini (or any object you like to photograph)
• A table (above all to support us):)
• camera with telephoto lens (I used the Sigma 70 -200 to 160mm). This is to crush a bit 'perspective, as well as to blur the background more
• Tripod (key using a table lamp)
• sheet of paper with glossy finish, size about 50x70 cm, has the function of covering the floor support and the background, attached to a support (I I used the wall and a piece of tape!)
• Some sheets of copy paper, will serve as reflectors
• A light source (I used a table lamp with a 40W incandescent bulb)

You start by placing the sheet of glossy paper on the table, and bends slightly to create the background. Warning! do not make a sharp turn, otherwise the board will appear in the image and it will be difficult to remove later. To have a uniform background you need to create what is called a "limbo".

turn on the light that will be used to illuminate the subject (all the others are off, the curtains closed, windows boarded up ... well, not this, but there should be no other source of light to illuminate the subject: you may see blue highlights on the subject or the background) and make a measurement of the white balance (on the Nikon menu, select White Balance, PRE, Size, and take a picture of the background lights).

Place the object in a pleasant way and we choose the most suitable composition. The long focal lens is also used to be able to use a little more background: the goal is more long, the lower portion of the background which will appear in the image.

The pattern of light in this photo includes a single light that, contrary to what one might think, illuminating the background. The light hits the background in fact, spreads and back, creating a shadow divergent directed towards the observer. This gives a better sense of depth. In the case also sheds light on the top of the iPod, which is polished and then will be very clear.
To illuminate the front there are two reflectors, one on each side, made by folding two sheets of copy paper.
panels create two vertical reflections that extend along the entire height of the iPod, emphasizing the roundness of the side edges. Illuminate the rest of the front face, in particular the ring that lets you select the songs.

The screen is a problem. Taking pictures off an iPod does not sense, have you ever seen an advertisement for a music player off? With the backlight off is too dark and not read the inscriptions. When you turn the backlight that is almost blinding (remember that the room is pretty dark ...) and, at least in the iPod Mini, you can adjust the intensity.
Here the procedure is divided in two possible ways: if the lamp is powerful enough that we're using can counter the strong illumination of the screen, and we have a balanced picture. If the lamp is not strong enough (like mine) have to make a single click the screen and overlay it with the original Photoshop.
In my case the lamp was slightly too little power, I had to do a screen shot of dodging a stop.

At this point the phase of shooting is almost over: we focus on the front face, chiudamo the aperture (f8 or more) and find the correct exposure by doing some test shots.

with any image editor open the base image, we make the normal adjustments of contrast, color and remove any dust from the sensor (in addition to the inevitable scratches that has an ipod after 4 years of use ...). Now superimpose the screen display correctly using layer masks.
Sharpen with a little 'to sharpen, and the picture is over!

How To Patch Pokemon Heart Gold Usa

Microstock: The Return

In recent months I had dropped the microstock. After an initial moment of euphoria, since inclusion on Shutterstock, sales began to fall a bit '. Shutterstock in fact is very sensitive to the number of images that are sent, and their constancy in February not upload multiple images, and consequently sales have almost stopped. In other
photostock the situation remained more or less stable: I sold just before and just sell it now:) I
then dropped for a while ', also because not having much time to photograph I have not uploaded anything.
I have not even checked the more sales statistics on Shutterstock, because the fact of having few sales, coupled with the boring system of access to the site (username, password and reCaptcha) made me lose the will.

Until, curious to get in, after months, I check my account, I find that in October, has anyone bought one of my image as nothing short of enormous, making as many as $ 28! (I am a really big number, considering that the basic sales you earn $ 0.25 in the image!)
proud of this sale are also ongoing to see the situation on Dreamstime and Fotolia, and the result was ... nothing. Pretty much everything has remained as when I left, except for a couple of small sales here and there. But I have noticed that I had left on Dreamstime outstanding (in February) 20 images that were waiting keywords. Once the upload is complete it took about a day because they were both accepted. My portfolio so it is renewed at least a bit '. Fotolia
On the other hand there are problems: zero sales and to be asked to approve an image we have to wait weeks. I is just disappointing.

The good news is that on Dreamstime, helped by some recent uploads are now up to 53 images approved, which entitles me to participate in the Assignment! They are sort of themed competitions, where photos can be sent and approved, by choice, be taken quickly to level 5 (and therefore sales will be paid any more) or be completely divested (sold the rights) for $ 25 in the image. This solution may be interesting in the case of images that have great commercial value, or if one wants to quickly reach the threshold for payment (which I do not dispiacerebbem although lately the exchange with the dollar is not so favorable) .

The record total of microstock is:

Fotolia :

Uploaded images: 19
Pictures sold: 13
Member since: July 2008

Yuck ...

Dreamstime :

Uploaded images: 53
Images Sold: 29
Member since: July 2008

better already ...

Shutterstock:

Uploaded images: 28
Pictures sold: 135
Member Since: September 2008

Not bad!

Considering that until now I did it in his spare time by recycling images taken for other occasions, do not consider it a bad result, especially on Shutterstock.
I plan to update a bit 'portfolio of all sites with pictures taken on purpose, to see if I can raise a bit' sales.

soon with updates!

Aliens Of Hellenic Descent

A few weeks ago I was at the Rally Legend.
Being the first time, expectations were high, and I would say I am quite satisfied. The test
night was exciting but disappointing photographically (completely in the dark, behind security cordons and the blinding headlights of cars, the result is quite painful), although it ended early (for us, the competitors have continued) to due to rain. Luckily, we left in time: shortly after he got into the car the rain had turned the lawn into a mud rain has become much more intense!

Among the mourners is also known that the rush to prepare and leave for San Marino at home I forgot the 70-200, and I had to fix me with what I had: D40, 18-55, SB-600, FM, 50 f1.8 and 135 f3.5. As you can see I also brought a film camera, going to see some classic cars wanted to try to capture on an appropriate medium:)
I tried the 135 on the D40, but I did not like the prospect that returned to where we set I preferred to approach a bit 'more (not without risk) and use the wide angle, which in my opinion this is a winning races to take pictures that involve the viewer. Armed
18-55 and then I started to flash the curb (in the test on Saturday afternoon, the morning I found photographically points for, and I folded up a solution of luck) to try to block, with rapid, darting your car next to me at least 90km / h (some more, some less ...).
The big problem was that at that point the route passes through the trees, which blocked, in part, the rays of the sun struggled to filter atraverso the clouds. I then raised the sensitivity to ISO 800 and almost wide open around the time I got 1 / 500 of a second (which sometimes are not even enough!).
Then, to get some different views, I moved across the street, where, however, were slightly against the machines. I then mounted the flash, but I was very satisfied: even dodging to limit the emitted light, the shadows always too flattened on the machine, so that lost three-dimensionality. Then I moved a bit 'and I adjusted the exposure so you have just read the shadows and highlights little burned.
On this occasion I am really happy that they were taken in raw: in post-production I lowered the exposure of one or two stops (as needed) to recover at least part of the burn, and then I lightened the shadows. This has the same effect as the flash, but does not create unwanted reflections and maintain the three-dimensionality of the subject, at the expense of a little 'more noise.

Anyway, I'm glad I saw it in action (albeit a very mild: the costs of these cars is prohibitive and spare parts are not easily found) the real monsters that have shaped the history of the rally: Delta S4, Lancia Stratos, Delta Integrale, Opel Manta, Ascona and Kadett, Fiat 131 Abarth, Talbot Lotus and many more ...

After Alochol My Gland Swalloen

Rally Legend 2009 Rally Sanremo 2009

This year I attended the usual round of the Sanremo Rally, now in its 51st edition .
As always I enjoyed it and I took some photos, but to be honest I expected more. Perhaps because the roads of the rally did not have many spectacular points (most some of which are full of people and not allow you to see well the passage of cars), maybe because I still have in mind the 2007 edition, where shortly after the pass baking almost all cars have faced the great bend sideways.



Moreover, you can not have everything, at least it was not cold this year, the company was excellent as always surprise and we did not arrive late for tests (as always ...).
I got some good shooting, however, that will be transferred to my "portfolio rally."



For this race I took the D40, the 18-55, the 70-200 and SB-600 (I have not used). I left home 50 1.8 manual focus because the picture of the rally I find it impractical, and the focal length very limited flexibility (I like 3 or 4 photos in each burst of machine passes, with a fixed lens if they make one, two at most).

I also tried the function and photo geotagging iPhone 3Gs that I bought recently, and I was quite pleased with (the photo quality is good, but the geotagging is wrong ... a few kilometers)




soon with photos of the Rally Legend!

Denise Milani Before Implant

Ignis Nocte - Romano Canavese

Saturday, September 19th I was at Romano Canavese a picture of a historical re-enactment, complete with several performances by artists, organized by the Group Nocturna. Unfortunately the weather was not the most forgiving, and rain blasted the show with fire, a central event for Ignis Nocte.

Other artists who have come from various parts of Italy, however, have entertained the public, historical groups, clowns - jugglers, falconers, drums and the sight of Alex, fakir, magician and sword swallower.

Me and my "colleague" Lorenzo we rode through the streets of Romano Canavese all afternoon, until evening and we never left the camera (except to eat ...), and I must say that the result satisfies me enough.

During the day I used my D40 with 18-55, 70-200 and 70-30VR (Lorenzo), and the pictures came very well. In the evening the show was staged in a former church, which made it difficult to make perfect shots. I used the D80 battery pack together with Lorenzo, in which I attacked the 70-200 2.8 and my SB-600. I just used the flash, due to the temperature difference between the flash and light bulbs that lit up the church, but it was of help: adding a little 'weight of the whole has certainly contributed to the arms get tired before, but has made with a little 'more stable.

They are in fact managed to photograph standing free-hand, ISO 1600, F2.8 with shutter 1 / 50 of a second, without images visibly moved.

Now some pictures:

For more information:

http://www.grupponocturna.it/

http://www.nespologiullare.it/

http://www.tamburitraxia.com/

http://www.falconeriamaestra.it/

http://www.lamotta . com /

soon with the next post: Rally of San Remo!

Katesplayground Kates Name

Recently, while output in the mountains with the group photo CAFE , I got to try on my D40 a Nikkor Fisheye 10.5.

I had already tried once, but for only 2 shots and came too bad, but now I could try it for half a day, and I enjoyed it a lot.

E 'a funny goal, creates strong perspective distortions created by wide-angle pushed, in addition to the typical distortion of fisheye lenses.

Being a rectangular fisheye image completely fills the frame of a car with DX sensor (APS-C) and mounted on a camera sensor with full (and sawing the hood!) You get the picture created by a circular fisheye .
The problems of this objective (which are also the problems of all fisheye) are:




1 - The strong lateral chromatic aberration (purple fringing), which in areas with high-contrast edges creates purple halos. It can completely correct in every case using Photoshop or Capture NX (Capture does this automatically)


2 - The huge field of view (on the diagonal is 180 degrees), while allowing you to take photos with unexpected normal lenses, forces have to be very careful with the composition: it's easy, just moving the camera in the frame include large portions of unwanted objects. (I have managed to frame sitting almost completely legs, in vertical shooting is very easy to assign your feet ...)


3 - with the D40 the focus is manual, and rather difficult with the focal length of 10.5mm, despite the opening of F2.8, it almost always has everything in focus and in addition to the fact that the D40's viewfinder is not great in size and brightness is very difficult to focus, which leads almost always to use the hyperfocal distance scale and, fortunately, present.


4 - built-in flash, as expected, does not cover completely the area framed by the lens. While it can create unusual and creative effects of the other forces to use an external flash (even that is not enough: the SB-600 is able to cover only 14mm, it is necessary to use a diffuser dome) to get lit the whole scene.


Despite these small flaws I enjoyed it much, and do not rule out on loan again to ask ...


Now some more pictures:

the next: a little coverage of the reenactment Ignis Nocte!

Is Veet Strip Wax Is Good For Genital Areas

New Fisheye!

announced, not without some pride, that one of my photos was chosen to be included in the Eighth edition of Schmap Turin Guide .
The photo in question is a frontal shot of the Castle of Racconigi, also appeared on this blog post about the trip to the Center Anatidae and Stork Racconigi .
For those who had no idea what I'm talking about here is the picture:



Racconigi Castle - Nikon D70, Nikkor 18-55 @ 18mm, 1 / 250, F16, ISO 200

soon as I have a little 'more time I'll do a quick Photoshop tutorial on how to solve the problem of falling lines, which I corrected in this picture to give it a more professional touch.

Another novelty is that lately I've noticed that on flickr have risen much comment spam, I wonder if anyone has had this problem, and how we have solved.

Hello, you next time!

Smashbox Foundation Vs Makeup Forever Foundation

Midnight Sun

At first glance it would seem this photo was taken at noon, looking good you notice something strange: the trails of light that can be seen at the top of the image are stars, the photo was taken to horse midnight!

Full details of the photo are: D40, 18-55, 1771 seconds (29.5 minutes) f22. To balance the warm light of the moon I set the white balance to incandescent (about 3500K). Using Sunlight on the balance is obtained almost gray sky and the foreground with a yellow cast.




I did experiment with long exposures in the past, but none I had ever completely satisfied.

I found a tutorial that explains a bit 'of things about how to photograph star trails, and I decided it was worth trying again.
The intent was to photograph the trails of the stars, making them the longest possible, but I have been very limited choice of equipment and in the evening.
Without thinking, in fact, I decided to do this right in the photo peak of the full moon that illuminated the landscape so that it becomes as it is of the same day. On a moonless night I got the dark blue sky and the foreground black (maybe not completely black, because of various lamps and other lights).
limit that I found rather in the equipment, however, is what distinguishes a digital camera: the sensor. This component, due to the current passing through it, heats up, generating thermal noise, which manifests as purple streaks inside the frame when the sensor reaches a certain temperature. Before the purple halos (in this picture did not come forward) shows a certain amount of digital noise, combined with several "Hot pixels", which degrade the overall image quality. During my tests I noticed that the noise is "cumulative" among other shows, or, as the temperature sensor between the end of exposure and the beginning of the next does not change, each frame will be louder than the previous year. In my case, the purple streaks occurred in the third consecutive exposures, lasting 30 minutes, which means that the D40 at ISO200 and summer temperature at night (say, 22-23 ° C) stands about half an hour before showing the first halos. This problem may partially solve activating the noise reduction on long exposures, which automatically performs the subtraction of dark frame, getting rid of stains, some hot pixels and some noise. On the other side of the coin, however, doubles the exposure time, using the extra time to take the dark frame.
Another big problem is the battery, probably a full charge, in a long exposure, will last about 2 or 3 hours (I did not proof of), limiting the opportunity for long exposures. For fotografarele trails of stars in any significant way (ie the stars that are nearly half a turn) are needed, depending on the season, from 4 to 8 hours. And with the cold, the battery lasts even less, and you might start to finish the charge within the first half hour.


The simplest solution to all these problems lies in the past: the film.

The film does not produce noise in long exposures, does not need energy to be impressed, or at least it uses very little (using the shutter autofocus SLR needs a bit 'of energy to remain open, but my mechanics as FM can operate well without batteries).

It only remains to solve the lack of reciprocity, which creates an underexposure and color shift.

The first problem in reality there is little: the stars, the bright light, giving the film nevertheless, the sky will remain a bit 'darker, highlighting The stars. And the first floor we wanted it black, no?

The second problem is solved using a blue filter, or a film balanced for tungsten light (the classic incandescent bulbs, look '!), Such as Fujifilm Fujichrome 64T, 64T or Kodak Kodachrome. Too bad that these films are rather hard to find, and they cost a lot '.

I think I'll let the sky turns orange, I think it's a color that gives it:)
I decided that I will use the film will be a Kodak Elite Chrome 100, perfect for testing, since the box of 3 rolls of film costs only 5 or 6 €.
soon with some more experiments!

Zumba Results Before And After Guys

HDR from a single click? 2 ° Memorial

Although I have not yet addressed here the theme of HDR I'm interested in sharing a technique derived from this, that can help in some cases to make the photos more interesting.


This technique is to create a HDR from a single image: in some cases, such as photography of moving subjects, you can not run 3, 5, or more shots at different exposures, you must then use one click. Obviously, to do what is best (if not indispensable) in shoot RAW format that allows for the greatest possible amount of information within the image.




The principle is simple, it takes an image, you create a few copies to exposure altered in post-production, and then joining them as any HDR.


This can be useful to retrieve pictures partly burned, as the example of this tutorial:







E 'clear as the photo is overexposed, and clearly this was my Error: When the photographer's car always use manual exposure: the automatic tends to underexpose too much if the machines have turned on the lights or reflections of the glass distorts the reading of the exposure.
usually works, sometimes the machines are slightly lighter burned.

HDR Returning to save this image (overexposed by about 1 stop) I open the NEF and I saved 3 copies in TIFF format, with the original exposure, underexposed by 1 stop and 2 stops underexposed.
overexposed because I did not create copies in the original picture the shadows are quite readable, and I'm interested in saving the highlights.
addition to the original photo (above), these are the other two copies, respectively -1 and -2 stops:













Having to choose one of the photo-compensated - 1 stop is the best, but still has some burned areas, the program will extract the second photography. Instead be extracted from the original mainly in the shadow of the car, and tires. I

for simplicity merges with HDR Photoshop (File -> Automate -> Merge to HDR), because I want to then work some more 'image.
Now let Photoshop work, after about ten seconds you will see a dialog box where we can choose the image quality (8, 16 or 32bit, I always use 16-bit) and the final exhibition of the picture.
made these choices you get the picture already merged:




It has something of a "chart", it seems almost hand drawn. Since I like this effect we intend to increase a little change in some parts of the image brightness.
This is done with the instruments "fencing" and "burns" (dodge and burn in English), which are used as a normal brush, but instead of color lightens and darkens the image.

Basically what I want to do is to increase the feeling of three dimensions of the machine, using light and dark, to do this further darkens the dark areas and lightens the light areas, but do not overdo it!






Now apply the normal adjustments to sharpening (unsharp mask only on the machine) a slight S-curve with the curves tool to lighten the midtones a little, a touch-up colors (I used the vivid setting, instead of saturation: the Vibrance slider affects only parts of the image that have less saturation, returning results a bit 'more real) to bring out the mirror effect of the wheels (it is curious how a shining sky and grass ...)






At this point the image is finished, you just have to save and enjoy the final result:





Comparing with the image underexposed by a stop may seem identical (a Apart from the actions of burning and fencing), but with a closer look you can see many more areas highlights recovered HDR image.

Where Can I Find Thermagasket

Conrero

E 'gone a bit' of time, but finally I have time to show you some photos taken with the 70-200 in real conditions.




I could try some shots in athletes during the 2nd Memorial Conrero, a regularity race for historic cars.

E 'was also the first race of the year for me. This year, from the point of view of the rally did not go very well, the Monte Carlo are not able to go see it, Dawn was canceled, the Cesana Sestriere I have not ... I hope to refer back after the summer with the San Remo Rally.

In this release I was able to confirm the qualities of clarity and autofocus lens. A big distances even at F2.8 the depth of field is too large to notice problems of front-focus, but also at shorter distances (eg having to do a portrait) is little known. Furthermore, the portrait, almost always close the aperture to F4 at least, to have more depth of field and thus have to focus as much as possible the eyes, nose and mouth.

Certainly the Nikkor 70-200 2.8 gives more professional results, it is weather sealed and the VR helps a lot in low light conditions.

cost more than € 2000 against 700 of the Sigma, which I think (but I have not done comparative tests, but if I do I can provide one ...) is up to the original objectives, if you do not have too much to the eye and do not go looking for the nit.

On some occasions I have seen some professionals also use the Sigma, so do not be so bad.

I leave you with some other step of the day, see you soon!

Nanospeed 9900 Canadian Version

Sigma APO 70-200 F2.8 EX DG MACRO HSM II

was for some time that I wanted an objective like this, bright, strong, good quality optics, autofocus with a fast and too beautiful to behold.

I took the occasion of my birthday to spend part of the savings in this objective. After shooting a bit 'shop in Turin, where I found the prices a bit' high, I decided to point to the economy and take it online. I bought it from FotoColombo, ordering him to withdraw the site and by going in person, let me try it and possibly change if something was not right.

With the money saved I could buy an external hard drive, I will use as a backup ...

We come to "review": Use this goal a few weeks ago, but I remain amazed that every time the results can give. Do not forget that it is a universal objective (Sigma is a professional, but it remains a universal goal). Many think that this qualtà zoom is not much, but they are the same people who compare him to the Nikkor 70-200 VR, which costs more than three times as much.

This is a picture without the lens hood. it is rather bulky and heavy (nearly 1300g), but I find it very handy. Of course, the D40 is a bit 'small for that objective, so that the weight of the assembly is supported almost entirely by the hand holding the lens. I tried it attached to a D3 and seem made for each other!



mounting the hood sizes are still growing, and it turns into a super-professional goal! One of the things I like is the fact that turning the ring focus, and the zoom, the lens does not change, and no outside moves. This has the advantage of precluding a bit 'more of the entry of powder into the barrel, and not too unbalanced all-purpose machine (lenses are so thick they are also pretty heavy ...)

Another point for this lens is an attack on a tripod. It has a thread on the foot, allowing you to mount a monopod or tripod for quick, rotating 1 / 4 of a turn the knob locks or unlocks the goal quickly, which can rotate on its axis, allowing you to quickly change from one horizontal to a vertical shooting, and vice versa.
Another use for the tripod ring is to use it as support for using a free hand resting on the palm of your hand the entire system is stable, and the fingers remain free, allowing you to rotate the rings, while supporting the well ' objective.

The minimum focusing distance of one meter allows you to get closer to the subject, compared to the other objectives of the same type. This, coupled with the focal length of 200 mm, allows to have a macro ratio of 1:3.5.
The plastic window on the barrel allows you to always check the distance of focus, while the scale of depth of field to work in hyperfocal (actually no, or at least not in my case: the scale of depth of field is calculated for a full size sensor, so it is accurate only with the D700, D3 and D3x).
The autofocus is very fast and quiet, especially at distances greater than 2-3 meters. The maximum aperture of F2.8 AF sensor also enables a slow, such as the D40, to give unexpected results with the objectives of the kit. The precision autofocus
come back later.



The overall quality is high: it is a razor, but it is quite clear. On my copy I put a UV filter for protection, however, one of the cheapest, I have not had the opportunity to see how much sharpness remains under the "smooth", but I prefer having to apply a little 'over sharpen, which have ruined the front lens.



The sore point, as to the autofocus, the accuracy is. Given the shallow depth of field is achieved by photographing small objects, you immediately notice some problems with the front-focus. To better visualize the problem I stacked some of my favorite cds:) offset from each other by about 2mm. The autofocus is pointed at the CD medium (Dire Straits - Love Over Gold).
is known, even by these small pictures (clicking on it will enlarge) that trusting Autofocus (image below) the plan Focus is about 3mm closer than it should be. By adjusting the focus manually (picture above) everything returns to normal.
This is a bit 'a nuisance, as the manual focus with the D40 is rather difficult, notwithstanding the zoom ring is quite accurate and did not play.

This problem occurs in almost all copies of this objective, and its size is typical coupling-lens camera. It may be that the same lens, mounted on another body, does not give any problem, as it may be that the phenomenon of entities increases.






About the image quality I've done some shots for a notebook with squares: the grid drawn with thin lines offers a glimpse of clarity, as well as the vignetting and distortion.
the order we have:

200 mm - F2.8: Vignetting is apparent, but can be corrected. Closing of a stop is reduced a lot. The sharpness is good. There is a barrel distortion easily correctable.




200 mm - F8: very good sharpness, vignetting disappeared, the distortion remains.

70 mm - F2.8: here is quite soft, little distortion and no vignetting.

(In this case I think the lack of definition is due mostly to the problem of front focus: a 70mm f2.8 depth of field is a few millimeters, an error of focus can make a picture of a object perpendicular to the sensor quite blurred)

70 mm - F8: high definition, no distortion and no vignetting.

These faults (mainly the front-focus) can be seen only under particular conditions, such as shooting close subjects with aperture wide open. In normal is difficult to notice, so that some owners are not even aware.

soon, with some pictures on the field!