Is Veet Strip Wax Is Good For Genital Areas

New Fisheye!

announced, not without some pride, that one of my photos was chosen to be included in the Eighth edition of Schmap Turin Guide .
The photo in question is a frontal shot of the Castle of Racconigi, also appeared on this blog post about the trip to the Center Anatidae and Stork Racconigi .
For those who had no idea what I'm talking about here is the picture:



Racconigi Castle - Nikon D70, Nikkor 18-55 @ 18mm, 1 / 250, F16, ISO 200

soon as I have a little 'more time I'll do a quick Photoshop tutorial on how to solve the problem of falling lines, which I corrected in this picture to give it a more professional touch.

Another novelty is that lately I've noticed that on flickr have risen much comment spam, I wonder if anyone has had this problem, and how we have solved.

Hello, you next time!

Smashbox Foundation Vs Makeup Forever Foundation

Midnight Sun

At first glance it would seem this photo was taken at noon, looking good you notice something strange: the trails of light that can be seen at the top of the image are stars, the photo was taken to horse midnight!

Full details of the photo are: D40, 18-55, 1771 seconds (29.5 minutes) f22. To balance the warm light of the moon I set the white balance to incandescent (about 3500K). Using Sunlight on the balance is obtained almost gray sky and the foreground with a yellow cast.




I did experiment with long exposures in the past, but none I had ever completely satisfied.

I found a tutorial that explains a bit 'of things about how to photograph star trails, and I decided it was worth trying again.
The intent was to photograph the trails of the stars, making them the longest possible, but I have been very limited choice of equipment and in the evening.
Without thinking, in fact, I decided to do this right in the photo peak of the full moon that illuminated the landscape so that it becomes as it is of the same day. On a moonless night I got the dark blue sky and the foreground black (maybe not completely black, because of various lamps and other lights).
limit that I found rather in the equipment, however, is what distinguishes a digital camera: the sensor. This component, due to the current passing through it, heats up, generating thermal noise, which manifests as purple streaks inside the frame when the sensor reaches a certain temperature. Before the purple halos (in this picture did not come forward) shows a certain amount of digital noise, combined with several "Hot pixels", which degrade the overall image quality. During my tests I noticed that the noise is "cumulative" among other shows, or, as the temperature sensor between the end of exposure and the beginning of the next does not change, each frame will be louder than the previous year. In my case, the purple streaks occurred in the third consecutive exposures, lasting 30 minutes, which means that the D40 at ISO200 and summer temperature at night (say, 22-23 ° C) stands about half an hour before showing the first halos. This problem may partially solve activating the noise reduction on long exposures, which automatically performs the subtraction of dark frame, getting rid of stains, some hot pixels and some noise. On the other side of the coin, however, doubles the exposure time, using the extra time to take the dark frame.
Another big problem is the battery, probably a full charge, in a long exposure, will last about 2 or 3 hours (I did not proof of), limiting the opportunity for long exposures. For fotografarele trails of stars in any significant way (ie the stars that are nearly half a turn) are needed, depending on the season, from 4 to 8 hours. And with the cold, the battery lasts even less, and you might start to finish the charge within the first half hour.


The simplest solution to all these problems lies in the past: the film.

The film does not produce noise in long exposures, does not need energy to be impressed, or at least it uses very little (using the shutter autofocus SLR needs a bit 'of energy to remain open, but my mechanics as FM can operate well without batteries).

It only remains to solve the lack of reciprocity, which creates an underexposure and color shift.

The first problem in reality there is little: the stars, the bright light, giving the film nevertheless, the sky will remain a bit 'darker, highlighting The stars. And the first floor we wanted it black, no?

The second problem is solved using a blue filter, or a film balanced for tungsten light (the classic incandescent bulbs, look '!), Such as Fujifilm Fujichrome 64T, 64T or Kodak Kodachrome. Too bad that these films are rather hard to find, and they cost a lot '.

I think I'll let the sky turns orange, I think it's a color that gives it:)
I decided that I will use the film will be a Kodak Elite Chrome 100, perfect for testing, since the box of 3 rolls of film costs only 5 or 6 €.
soon with some more experiments!

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HDR from a single click? 2 ° Memorial

Although I have not yet addressed here the theme of HDR I'm interested in sharing a technique derived from this, that can help in some cases to make the photos more interesting.


This technique is to create a HDR from a single image: in some cases, such as photography of moving subjects, you can not run 3, 5, or more shots at different exposures, you must then use one click. Obviously, to do what is best (if not indispensable) in shoot RAW format that allows for the greatest possible amount of information within the image.




The principle is simple, it takes an image, you create a few copies to exposure altered in post-production, and then joining them as any HDR.


This can be useful to retrieve pictures partly burned, as the example of this tutorial:







E 'clear as the photo is overexposed, and clearly this was my Error: When the photographer's car always use manual exposure: the automatic tends to underexpose too much if the machines have turned on the lights or reflections of the glass distorts the reading of the exposure.
usually works, sometimes the machines are slightly lighter burned.

HDR Returning to save this image (overexposed by about 1 stop) I open the NEF and I saved 3 copies in TIFF format, with the original exposure, underexposed by 1 stop and 2 stops underexposed.
overexposed because I did not create copies in the original picture the shadows are quite readable, and I'm interested in saving the highlights.
addition to the original photo (above), these are the other two copies, respectively -1 and -2 stops:













Having to choose one of the photo-compensated - 1 stop is the best, but still has some burned areas, the program will extract the second photography. Instead be extracted from the original mainly in the shadow of the car, and tires. I

for simplicity merges with HDR Photoshop (File -> Automate -> Merge to HDR), because I want to then work some more 'image.
Now let Photoshop work, after about ten seconds you will see a dialog box where we can choose the image quality (8, 16 or 32bit, I always use 16-bit) and the final exhibition of the picture.
made these choices you get the picture already merged:




It has something of a "chart", it seems almost hand drawn. Since I like this effect we intend to increase a little change in some parts of the image brightness.
This is done with the instruments "fencing" and "burns" (dodge and burn in English), which are used as a normal brush, but instead of color lightens and darkens the image.

Basically what I want to do is to increase the feeling of three dimensions of the machine, using light and dark, to do this further darkens the dark areas and lightens the light areas, but do not overdo it!






Now apply the normal adjustments to sharpening (unsharp mask only on the machine) a slight S-curve with the curves tool to lighten the midtones a little, a touch-up colors (I used the vivid setting, instead of saturation: the Vibrance slider affects only parts of the image that have less saturation, returning results a bit 'more real) to bring out the mirror effect of the wheels (it is curious how a shining sky and grass ...)






At this point the image is finished, you just have to save and enjoy the final result:





Comparing with the image underexposed by a stop may seem identical (a Apart from the actions of burning and fencing), but with a closer look you can see many more areas highlights recovered HDR image.

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Conrero

E 'gone a bit' of time, but finally I have time to show you some photos taken with the 70-200 in real conditions.




I could try some shots in athletes during the 2nd Memorial Conrero, a regularity race for historic cars.

E 'was also the first race of the year for me. This year, from the point of view of the rally did not go very well, the Monte Carlo are not able to go see it, Dawn was canceled, the Cesana Sestriere I have not ... I hope to refer back after the summer with the San Remo Rally.

In this release I was able to confirm the qualities of clarity and autofocus lens. A big distances even at F2.8 the depth of field is too large to notice problems of front-focus, but also at shorter distances (eg having to do a portrait) is little known. Furthermore, the portrait, almost always close the aperture to F4 at least, to have more depth of field and thus have to focus as much as possible the eyes, nose and mouth.

Certainly the Nikkor 70-200 2.8 gives more professional results, it is weather sealed and the VR helps a lot in low light conditions.

cost more than € 2000 against 700 of the Sigma, which I think (but I have not done comparative tests, but if I do I can provide one ...) is up to the original objectives, if you do not have too much to the eye and do not go looking for the nit.

On some occasions I have seen some professionals also use the Sigma, so do not be so bad.

I leave you with some other step of the day, see you soon!